Laid back at the Way Back Eddy

Way Back Eddy
9 Bridge Road
Westport, MA
508-636-9055

Open Tuesday - Sunday
Boatyard Breakfast 9 am - 11 am
The Rest of the Day 11 am - 6 pm

“no shirt, no shoes, no problem….”_
The six words resonate well and truly with salty refugees from Horseneck Beach, a mile down the road in Westport, MA. The motto of this self-described "beach shack" is printed prominently on the tri-fold paper menu and T-shirts that sell for 20 bucks and are the uniform of the staff.

While the state beach can accommodate 20,000 sun worshippers during a steamy summer weekend, the Way Back Eddy, across the street from its big brother, The Back Eddy, can squeeze about twenty wayfarers at the informal tables and chairs inside. Another twenty on the adjacent patio and front veranda have a view of the harborside Back Eddy, the parking lot, and a sliver of Westport Harbor.

You didn’t come here for the view, though, You came for inexpensive provender that happens to be prepared with the same premium quality ingredients that come out of the renowned kitchen across the street.

Push open the flimsy screen door, and bam, you’re looking at a huge chalkboard listing the day’s specials and menu. You’re also treading on a cement floor, flanked by honeydew hued cement walls, a chest high order counter, and the smiling faces of wait people behind it who seem to be having a dandy time chatting with regulars and first timers. Think retro. The rectangular one story place has the ambiance of a friendly filling station.

The menu is blessedly simple: soup and salads; sides; boatyard breakfast; the rest of the day; thirsty; sweet stuff. Specials… see the chalkboard or ask.

‘Boatyard Breakfasts’ won’t make your tummy feel like a load of ballast. Bagels, scones and muffins, fresh fruit plate, yogurt and croissants could hold most till lunchtime. An egg burrito is a good idea if you plan to walk up and down the two-mile stretch of Horseneck Beach instead of reading that trashy beach novel in your bag. The fact that none of these selections costs more than 4 bucks casts a ray of sunshine on your wallet.

The clam and corn chowder has a rich smoky flavor and is loaded with quartered red bliss potatoes, corn, copious bits of clam, served bowl or cup garnished with a wedge of lemon and sprig of parsley.

A “special” Mediterranean tuna panini or wrap is chunks of white tuna, chopped red onion, black olives, and parsley, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette. The mozzarella, tomato, fresh basil panini ($7 for any panini) on griddle branded buttery white country bread is a mouthful of summer. The ‘rest of the day” menu… 7 oz hand formed burgers ($8), 1/4 pound hot dogs ($5), pulled pork sandwiches ($8), fried fish sandwich ($9), peanut butter and jelly ($5). How can you go wrong?

pt at large says, "Reel in the fish sandwich!": 12 inch tortilla wrap of delicate fried fish, chopped tomato and jalapeno, scallions, lettuce, pickled cabbage, sauced with combo of Inner Beauty and tartar sauce. A great catch.

Local green salads ($5) are country produce, as fresh as it gets. Fancy salad? Try the Eddy Salad with arugula blue cheese and local Noquochoke apples ($6). Side dishes of cornbread, eddy slaw, baked beans, sweet potato fries, steak fries, grilled chicken, 3 grilled shrimp range from 3 to 4 bucks. Small servings, big taste.

Nantucket Nectars, sodas, Jim’s organic coffee, espresso/lattes - if you can’t shake your big city java jones - and coastal roasters tea range from $2 to $3. pt at large loves these screen door prices.

For those in need of a sugar smack, check out the smoothies, milk shakes ($5), ice cream, and home-made (did you expect otherwise?) brownies and cookies ($1.50).

The little place is an upscale, “come as you are” Dairy Queen, as unpretentious and casual as a back yard barbecue, where you can eat well and feel laid back, way back.

Comments

[becky turner]

THANKS FOR A GREAT WRITE-UP! WE ALL APPRECIATE YOUR KIND WORDS. I'LL PASS THIS ALONG TO THE WAY BACK STAFF.

EAT UP,
BECKY TURNER
KITCHEN MANAGER '06
WAY BACK EDDY

[becky turner]

Just a quick response to your rave review of the Way Back: Thanks! We all appreciate your kind words about our little beach shack, our staff, and our overall vibe. We take any and all compliments!
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Cheers to a great season!
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>Becky Turner
>Kitchen Manager 2006
>Way Back Eddy